colecoes de moda nao fazem mais sentido

Coleções de moda ainda fazem sentido?​

  • Tempo de Leitura Aproximada : 8 Minutos

Todos os anos há diversos lançamentos de coleções de moda,  que ganham as páginas de revistas e preenchem desfiles ao redor do mundo.

Porém, este tema não é algo contemporâneo. Quase um século após sua criação, muitas pessoas já ouviram falar sobre esta dinâmica do mundo da moda, embora talvez não saibam definir muito bem o que seja uma coleção.

Uma coleção é a reunião de criações de estilo propostas por marcas de moda.

Elas contemplam roupas, calçados e acessórios em torno de um conceito ou tema em comum:  pode ser uma temática específica, uma paleta de cores ou até elementos que se tornaram tendências. 

Boa parte do atual sistema da moda gira em torno de coleções, onde muitas marcas lançam pelo menos duas por ano (Outono/Inverno e Primavera/Verão).

Algumas coleções são apenas conceituais e servem para inspirar as novas tendências de produtos que de fato chegarão às prateleiras.

Já outras coleções são pensadas no consumidor final e são criadas para despertar o desejo.

Tendo em vista que hoje o sistema de moda vem se transformando desde a transição do mundo industrial para o mundo digital, a reflexão que fica é: será que coleções ainda fazem sentido atualmente?

Leia na íntegra este artigo e descubra. 

Uma breve historia do sistema da moda

Uma breve história do sistema da moda

Todo que conhecemos hoje como o sistema da moda teve início com o nascimento da Alta Costura. Charles Frederick Worth foi o primeiro criador a adquirir o status de estilista.

Em 1858, Worth, então considerado apenas um costureiro, inaugura sua primeira maison de moda em Paris, que foi um marco na história da moda.

Worth foi um visionário para época e implementou diversas inovações que perduram até hoje.

Entre elas encontram-se as etiquetas assinadas com o nome do designer nas roupas bem como o formato de apresentação dos produtos de moda

O primeiro registro que existe em relação ao lançamento de coleções refere-se aos eventos organizados por Worth, onde os modelos confeccionados pelo estilista eram apresentados ao público de acordo com as estações vigentes. 

Esse tipo de formato, inovador para a época, deu início ao calendário de moda utilizado até hoje, que orienta toda o processo de pesquisa, desenvolvimento e lançamento de produtos no mercado às estações do ano (outono/inverno e primavera/verão).

A partir do nascimento e da consolidação da Alta Costura, toda a dinâmica do mercado de moda começa a se transformar.

Meio século depois, a partir da década de 1960, surge um novo formato de criação, produção e venda de produtos de moda: o Prêt-à-porter

Impulsionado por mudanças sociais, muitos criadores de Alta Costura começam a ver propósito em operar em um novo formato, mais moderno esteticamente e mais acessível à sociedade.

Assim, o prêt-à-porter transformou a lógica da produção industrial de moda até então vigente, impulsionado por uma sociedade cada vez mais sedenta pelo novo e pelo ato de consumir

De lá para cá, tanto o  Prêt-à-porter quanto a Alta Costura evoluíram, porém sempre operando na mesma lógica de coleções estabelecida por Worth. Porém, nos anos 2000 um novo formato atinge o mercado: o Fast Fashion. 

O Fast Fashion, representado por grandes cadeias de varejo como a Zara, H&M e Forever 21 estabeleceram uma nova lógica para o lançamento de coleções.

Neste formato, o lançamento de produtos passou a ser quase que semanal, fornecendo novidades em um ritmo acelerado e incentivando um comportamento de consumo nocivo que perdura até então. 

Na atualidade as tendencias de moda ainda fazem sentido?

Mas e na atualidade, as coleções de moda ainda fazem sentido?

Desde sua criação a senplo™ se empenha em desafiar o status quo da moda e faz isso através de muitos estudos e reflexões, que são sempre relacionados aos seus valores como marca. 

Se tratando de moda, a marca se questiona se ainda faz sentido a criação de coleções para impulsionar o sistema estabelecido até então.

E a conclusão que se chegou é que esse sistema está se tornando ultrapassado e desnecessário.

Isso ocorre por diferentes motivos, porém dois tópicos merecem a atenção e gostaríamos abordá-los aqui:

Falta de identidade

Muitas marcas baseiam suas coleções em tendências de consumo.

Ou definem temas aleatórios, baseados nas variações do mercado, ou seja, uma estratégia de marketing para vender mais.

Por isso, normalmente as coleções propostas não possuem uma relação direta com a identidade da marca.

Isso ocorre porque quando se trabalha com temas diversos, as marcas não conseguem consolidar um estilo claro. 

Por outro lado, a senplo™ acredita que as marcas de moda devem apostar na criação de um estilo bem definido, e que, dentro disso, os temas de coleção deveriam ser representados por este estilo.

Uma atitude que traz mais significado a roupa, além de criar um elo mais profundo entre a marca e seus consumidores.

Temporalidade programada

As coleções não são criadas para serem atemporais.

Pelo contrário, quando uma marca lança uma nova coleção a ideia é que este lançamento substitua a coleção anterior.

Isso corrobora para uma ideia equivocada de que os produtos só possuem valor enquanto estiverem na coleção vigente. Tanto que no varejo tradicional, quando uma nova coleção entra, os produtos da coleção passada são retirados das prateleiras ou entram em liquidação.

Esse comportamento é similar ao prazo de validade contido nos produtos alimentícios.

Embora as peças não estraguem fisicamente, elas parecem ser criadas para se tornarem perecíveis depois de um determinado tempo

A senplo™ entende que esse tipo de atitude presente na indústria da moda não faz mais sentido no mundo contemporâneo, uma vez que implica em um consumo desenfreado e em um descarte excessivo de produtos “fora de moda”. 

Por isso, desde seu nascimento, a senplo optou por não trabalhar com coleções, uma vez que elas denotam essa temporalidade.

Isso vai contra os valores da marca, que desenvolve produtos pensados para serem atemporais e únicos.

Assim, todos as peças da marca podem ser sempre encontradas, apenas atualizando a cartela de cores ou tecidos. 

Por fim, cada vez mais as pessoas estão percebendo os malefícios de um consumismo desenfreado e as marcas precisam se adequar a esse novo momento.

Mas, infelizmente, muitas empresas só pensam no lucro e lançam seus produtos para despertar o desejo sem se preocupar com os danos que isso causa.

Esse tem sido até então o objetivo do sistema de moda e o objetivo desse artigo era trazer argumentos que provem que esse sistema não faz mais sentido atualmente.

Reflexões como essa se fazem cada vez mais importantes, assim a senplo busca sempre trazer novos questionamentos neste quesito.

Ao objetivar quebrar o status quo da moda brasileira, se empenha na produção de reflexões conectadas aos seus valores como marca. 


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